:root{--ink:#233c3c;--teal:#28676b;--rust:#bd6846;--cream:#f5f2ed;--muted:#697675}*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:100px}body{margin:0;color:var(--ink);background:#fff;font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:16px;line-height:1.65}a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}button,input,select{font:inherit}button,a,input,select{touch-action:manipulation}button{cursor:pointer}button:focus-visible,a:focus-visible,input:focus-visible,select:focus-visible{outline:3px solid #d78c44;outline-offset:5px}button{color:inherit}img{display:block;width:100%;object-fit:cover}h1,h2,h3,p{margin-top:0}h1,h2,h3{line-height:1.12;letter-spacing:-1.4px}h2{font-size:clamp(32px,4vw,49px);font-weight:800}h3{font-size:25px;letter-spacing:-.6px}.wrap{width:min(1160px,calc(100% - 80px));margin:auto}.eyebrow{text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:2.4px;font-size:11px;font-weight:bold;color:var(--rust);margin-bottom:20px}.button{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:36px;background:var(--teal);color:white;padding:14px 24px;font-weight:bold;font-size:13px;border:1px solid var(--teal);transition:background .2s}.button:hover{background:#1a5053}.button.light{background:white;color:var(--ink);border-color:white}.textlink{display:inline-flex;gap:24px;align-items:center;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rust);padding-bottom:5px;font-size:13px;font-weight:bold}.textlink:hover{color:var(--rust)}header{position:absolute;top:0;z-index:5;width:100%;color:white;border-bottom:1px solid #ffffff32}header.solid{position:relative;color:var(--ink);border-bottom:1px solid #e6e9e6}nav{height:108px;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;max-width:1390px;margin:auto;padding:0 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40%)}.hero-content{position:relative;padding-top:100px}.hero .eyebrow{color:#ffffffc9}.hero h1{font-size:clamp(60px,7.2vw,100px);font-weight:800;line-height:1.01;max-width:850px;margin-bottom:24px;letter-spacing:-4px}.hero h1 em{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-weight:normal}.hero p.intro{max-width:510px;font-size:17px;color:#fffef0;line-height:1.7;margin-bottom:30px}.location{position:absolute;right:45px;bottom:27px;font-size:11px;letter-spacing:1px}.scroll-note{position:absolute;bottom:28px;left:calc(50% - 45px);font-size:10px;letter-spacing:2px}.intro-strip{padding:27px 0;background:var(--cream)}.intro-strip .wrap{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:20px}.intro-strip p{margin:0;font-size:13px}.intro-strip span{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:22px;font-style:italic;color:var(--teal)}.section{padding:90px 0}.section-heading{display:flex;align-items:flex-end;justify-content:space-between;gap:30px;margin-bottom:35px}.section-heading 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.meta{display:flex;gap:12px;font-size:10px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:1.4px;color:var(--rust);margin:19px 0 10px}.card h3{font-size:25px;margin:0 0 13px}.card p{font-size:13px;color:var(--muted);line-height:1.75;margin-bottom:16px}.card .read{font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;display:flex;justify-content:space-between}.card .read span{color:var(--rust)}.result-count{color:var(--muted);font-size:11px;margin:20px 0 0}.feature{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.08fr 1fr;background:var(--cream)}.feature>img{height:100%;min-height:500px}.feature-copy{padding:75px 70px}.feature-copy h2{font-size:48px}.feature-copy p:not(.eyebrow){color:var(--muted);font-size:15px}.about{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.7fr 1.3fr;gap:90px;align-items:center}.about .initial{font-size:110px;font-family:Georgia,serif;font-style:italic;border:1px solid #cbd9d3;border-radius:50%;width:220px;height:220px;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;color:var(--teal);margin:auto;line-height:1}.about p{color:var(--muted);max-width:620px}.trip-hero{height:610px}.trip-hero h1{font-size:112px}.trip-meta{display:flex;gap:30px;font-size:11px;letter-spacing:1px;margin:20px 0 30px}.trip-intro{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.7fr 1.3fr;gap:70px;padding:65px 0;border-bottom:1px solid #dae2dc}.trip-intro h2{font-size:38px}.trip-intro p{color:var(--muted);font-size:17px}.trip-intro .numbers{display:flex;gap:35px;margin-top:25px}.numbers strong{display:block;font-size:25px;color:var(--teal)}.numbers span{font-size:11px}.journal-heading{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:25px;align-items:end;margin-bottom:35px}.journal-heading h2{margin:0}.journal-heading input{padding:10px 14px;width:260px;border:1px solid #d7dfdb;background:white;font-size:12px}.journal .card-image img{aspect-ratio:1.6}.journal .card 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0}.article-body a{color:var(--teal);text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:3px}.article-body iframe{width:100%;aspect-ratio:16/9;border:0;margin:20px 0}.article-end{background:var(--cream);padding:40px;margin-top:40px;font-family:Arial,sans-serif;font-size:14px;line-height:1.7}.post-nav{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:25px;padding:40px 0;border-top:1px solid #dfe4df}.post-nav a{display:block}.post-nav span{font-size:10px;color:var(--rust);letter-spacing:1px;text-transform:uppercase}.post-nav strong{display:block;font-size:18px;margin-top:10px}.post-nav a:last-child{text-align:right}footer{background:#203f40;color:white;padding:55px 40px 25px;text-align:center}footer .brand{font-size:27px}footer p{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-style:italic;font-size:17px;color:#d2dfd9;margin:25px 0 45px}footer>div{border-top:1px solid #ffffff25;padding-top:20px;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;font-size:10px;max-width:1160px;margin:auto;color:#c4d4ce}.skip,.sr-only{position:absolute;left:-10000px}.skip:focus{left:10px;top:10px;background:white;z-index:100;padding:10px;color:black}dialog{border:0;max-width:760px;width:calc(100% - 40px);padding:45px;color:var(--ink);max-height:85vh}dialog::backdrop{background:#102d2ee6}.close{position:absolute;top:12px;right:18px;font-size:30px;background:none;border:0}.close:hover{color:var(--rust)}dialog h2{font-size:35px}#global-search{border:0;border-bottom:2px solid var(--teal);width:100%;padding:15px 0;margin-bottom:20px}#search-results a{display:block;padding:15px 0;border-bottom:1px solid #e2e7e2}#search-results small{color:var(--rust);display:block;font-size:10px;letter-spacing:1px;text-transform:uppercase}#photo-dialog{padding:45px 20px 20px;width:min(1200px,95%);background:#fff}#photo-dialog img{object-fit:contain;max-height:76vh}.empty{padding:35px;background:var(--cream);grid-column:1/-1}.loading{padding:200px 40px;text-align:center}.back-top{display:inline-block;margin-top:25px;font-size:12px}.draft-note{font-size:11px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:30px;border-top:1px solid #dfe4df;padding-top:16px}
@media(min-width:1500px){.hero{height:760px}.hero-content{padding-top:80px}}
@media(max-width:900px){nav{padding:0 25px}.nav-side{gap:15px;font-size:11px}.wrap{width:calc(100% - 50px)}.hero{height:650px}.hero h1{font-size:74px}.grid{gap:30px 20px}.feature-copy{padding:50px 35px}.feature-copy h2{font-size:38px}.feature>img{min-height:440px}.about{gap:40px}.article-layout{gap:30px;grid-template-columns:160px 1fr}.filter-buttons{gap:0}.chip{padding:8px}.trip-intro{gap:40px}}
@media(max-width:650px){nav{height:85px;padding:0 20px}.nav-side>a{display:none}.nav-side{width:30%}.brand{font-size:16px}.brand b{font-size:9px}.brand svg{height:22px;margin-bottom:5px}#menu-toggle{display:block;font-size:20px}#mobile-menu{background:var(--ink);color:white;padding:20px}#mobile-menu a{display:block;padding:10px}.wrap{width:calc(100% - 40px)}.hero{height:680px;min-height:0}.hero-content{padding-top:70px}.hero h1{font-size:57px;letter-spacing:-2.5px}.hero p.intro{font-size:15px;max-width:320px}.hero .eyebrow{font-size:9px}.hero-image{object-position:60% center}.hero-shade{background:linear-gradient(90deg,#102d31a6,#152d2e39)}.location{right:20px;bottom:20px;font-size:9px}.scroll-note{display:none}.intro-strip .wrap{display:block;text-align:center}.intro-strip p{font-size:11px;margin-top:7px}.intro-strip span{font-size:20px}.section{padding:60px 0}.section-heading{display:block;margin-bottom:25px}.section-heading>p{margin-top:20px}.filters{display:block}.filters select{margin-top:15px;padding-left:0}.filter-buttons{gap:3px}.chip{font-size:11px;padding:7px 9px}.grid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:30px 17px}.card h3{font-size:20px}.card p{display:none}.card .meta{font-size:9px;margin:13px 0 8px;gap:7px;letter-spacing:.6px}.card .read{font-size:10px;gap:8px}.card .tag{font-size:8px;padding:3px 6px;bottom:9px;left:9px}.card-image img{aspect-ratio:1.05}.feature{grid-template-columns:1fr}.feature>img{height:300px;min-height:0}.feature-copy{padding:40px 25px}.feature-copy h2{font-size:38px}.about{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:35px}.about .initial{width:130px;height:130px;font-size:70px}.about h2{font-size:32px}.trip-hero{height:590px}.trip-hero h1{font-size:87px}.trip-intro{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:0;padding:45px 0}.trip-intro h2{font-size:32px}.trip-intro p{font-size:15px}.trip-intro .numbers{margin-bottom:30px}.journal-heading{display:block}.journal-heading input{margin-top:20px;width:100%}.journal .card h3{font-size:19px}.journal .card-image img{aspect-ratio:1.2}.article-heading{margin:25px auto}.article-heading h1{font-size:37px;letter-spacing:-1px}.article-cover{height:300px}.article-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr;margin:35px auto}.aside{position:static;display:none}.article-body{font-size:17px;line-height:1.85}.article-end{padding:25px}.post-nav strong{font-size:16px}.post-nav{gap:20px}.breadcrumb{font-size:10px;padding-top:20px}footer{padding-left:20px;padding-right:20px}footer>div{gap:20px;font-size:9px}dialog{padding:45px 25px 25px}dialog h2{font-size:28px}.empty{font-size:13px}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}*{transition:none!important}}
.lock-landscape{aspect-ratio:1.42;background:linear-gradient(145deg,#e0e7df,#c4d4c9);display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;flex-direction:column;color:#46615a}.lock-landscape span{font-size:65px;line-height:1.3}.lock-landscape b{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:15px;font-weight:400;font-style:italic}.text-cover{aspect-ratio:1.6;background:var(--cream);display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:22px;font-style:italic;padding:25px}.lock-page{padding:100px 0 110px;min-height:65vh;max-width:900px}.lock-page h1{font-size:70px;letter-spacing:-3px}.lock-intro{max-width:560px;font-size:18px;color:var(--muted)}.unlock-form{padding:30px;background:var(--cream);margin:35px 0 15px}.unlock-form label{display:block;font-size:13px;font-weight:bold;margin-bottom:10px}.password-row{display:flex;gap:14px}.password-row input{width:50%;border:1px solid #bbc9c1;padding:12px;min-width:0}.password-row .button{gap:8px}.unlock-form [role=status]{color:var(--rust);margin:12px 0 0;font-size:13px}.lock-footnote{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:30px}.lock-again{background:none;border:0;color:white;text-decoration:underline;font-size:10px}.travel-pages{margin-top:30px;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:10px 20px}.travel-pages .eyebrow{width:100%;margin-bottom:0}.year-filters{margin-bottom:30px}.article-body video,.article-body audio{width:100%;max-height:600px}.article-body .gallery{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:15px}.article-body .gallery img{margin:0;width:100%;height:250px;object-fit:cover}
@media(max-width:650px){.lock-landscape{aspect-ratio:1.05}.lock-landscape span{font-size:45px}.lock-landscape b{font-size:11px}.lock-page{padding:55px 0 65px}.lock-page h1{font-size:48px}.password-row{display:block}.password-row input{width:100%;margin-bottom:15px}.unlock-form{padding:22px}.lock-intro{font-size:16px}footer>div{flex-wrap:wrap}.trip-hero h1{font-size:clamp(42px,12vw,80px)}.trip-hero p.intro{display:-webkit-box;-webkit-line-clamp:4;-webkit-box-orient:vertical;overflow:hidden}.trip-meta{font-size:9px;gap:15px}.article-body .gallery img{height:170px}.trip-intro .numbers{flex-wrap:wrap}}
.trip-hero h1{font-size:clamp(56px,7.5vw,100px);max-width:1100px}.trip-hero p.intro{font-size:16px;display:-webkit-box;-webkit-line-clamp:4;-webkit-box-orient:vertical;overflow:hidden}.filters{flex-wrap:wrap}.filters .filter-buttons{gap:2px}.article-body table{width:100%;max-width:100%;border-collapse:collapse}.article-body td{padding:5px}.article-body td img{width:100%}@media(max-width:650px){.trip-hero h1{font-size:clamp(42px,12vw,70px)}.trip-hero p.intro{font-size:14px}}

.filters{flex-wrap:wrap}.filter-options{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:16px;flex-wrap:wrap}.private-filter{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:8px;font-size:12px;cursor:pointer}.private-filter input{accent-color:var(--teal);width:16px;height:16px;margin:0}